Résumé en Francais 2 !

Ca m’apprendra d’attendre de trop pour faire un résumé en français!!! Beaucoup de choses à dire !!! Et puis ZUT !!! De nos jours vous devez bien exercer votre anglais ! Non !? Donc, après Chela (Guatemala) nous n'avons pas pu voir Julien qui est arrive’ a Panajachel 2 jours plus tard… Nous avons donc prit la direction de Flores dans le nord du pays. Flores est presque île sur un beau grand lac ou’ nous avons pu nous baigner au petit matin, c’est aussi un point de départ pour les ruines Maya de Tikal, en gros c’est des pierres ! Mais bien assemble’ ça vous donne de belles grandes pyramides et autres temples ! Malheureusement on ne peut pas toutes les monter, certains touristes auraient décède’ en glissant d’un marche… Nous avons ensuite prit un bus pour Rio Dulce, afin d’y prendre un bateau pour remonter le fleuve jusque Livingstone, un des premiers villages d’esclave noir. Sur la première partie du fleuve en partant de Rio Dulce ce n est que des maisons de riches énormes (les maisons bien sur ! ;p ) avec des bateaux splendides. A Livingstone nous avons fait un petit « trekking » pour visiter les alentours ainsi que pour allez voir des lagunes et des cascades en pleine foret et donnant sur la mer… Baignades et plongeons ont fait notre bonheur. A Livingstone il y a des gens bizarres ! Tout d’abord une vieille grosse femme qui avait l air bien sympathique, qui s’approche de moi en regardant mon appareil photo autour du cou avant de me caresser le pénis en disant « I want this ! », j’ai même pas pu réagir tellement j étais surpris, Filipa ne faisait que rire ! Et puis ce vieux sur la plage avec sa machette qui veut tuer tous les touristes… De la nous avons décide’ de nous rendre a Belize . Ce n est que sur le bateau qu on a remarque’ que le prochain bateau de retour était vendredi alors que nous étions lundi. Nous nous sommes donc diriger vers Belize City pour aller a Cayer Caulker, une île paradisiaque dans la mer des caraïbes. J’ai d abord réussi à me couper le pied sur un corail et me brûler tout le torse et le vendre sur des algues !! (j ai toujours les marque une semaine après). Nous avons fait de la plonge’ libre et surtout nous avons nage’ avec pleins de requins !!! Depuis le bateau le guide jette des reste de poison, et a ce moment la plus de 5 requins viennent se goinfrer et se battre pour des bouts de carcasses ! Et puis HOP dans l’eau, je n’ai hésite’ que 2 secondes avant de me lancer ! C était vraiment excellent ! et impressionnant ! Nous avons acheté un appareil aquatique, vous aurez donc droit aux photos sous-marines ! De retour a Belize City nous avons décide’ de « splurger » ! Bref de casser la tirelire pour un peu de confort, nous avons eu droit à du Luxe !!! The Great House, vraiment splendide, et après un coup de téléphone ‘ de la réceptionniste au Manager, nous avons eu moitie’ prix ! Un bus puis un bateau très inconfortable a ricocher sur les vagues (j ai du amener un vieux croulant a l arrière du bateau ; devant moi il était presque a mourir, il était presque a faire un arrêt cardiaque Nous voila donc en Honduras ! Puerto Cortes, plus (-) de bus, mais on s arrange et trouve un voiture… Sur le chemin on arrive 5 minute après une fusillade, un homme est a terre sur le bord de la route, il a bien reçu une dizaines de balles dans la poitrine, la police vient d arriver, je regarde la scène sans trop réagir et nous continuons notre chemin, Filipa n a rien vu, je ne lui ai dit que 50 mètres plus loin, le taxi avançant a pas d’homme. Bref encore un autre bateau ! et puis Utila, une petite îles, ici nous restons 5 jours, demain on commence trois jour de cours de plonger sous-marine pour avoir notre permis international, ce soir c est le dernier jour du carnaval, la nuit s’annonce longue…

PS : rien ne pardonne mon français exécrable, mais c’est gratuit !

A hop, a skip and a dive away: Honduras!!

Well, after an early start, three hours of minibus, another three hours of the most uncomfortable boat ride (not to mention the one hour it took for immigration!) we arrived at Puerto Cortes in Honduras (the official language is Spanish but in the Bay Islands its mostly English). We were greeted by tons of people wanting to change our money for lempiras, yanking our passports from us for immigration and ushering us in groups towards taxis --seemed like a cattle ranch! But we arrived ... now we just had to find a way to get to La Ceiba!

After eating we got a bus to San Pedro Sula and got there to find out that the last bus to La Ceiba had already left. We found another 2 guys that had come on the boat with us and with them took a taxi to find among the many bus terminals one that still had a bus! Unsuccessful, the taxi driver negotiated with us to takes us to Progresso where he guaranteed us there would still be a bus. On the way to Progresso we passed a crowd of people and tons of policemen around a guy who had been shot at least 3 times in the chest and was just lying dead on the road -- I didnt actually see it as when Jo told me the taxi had already passed but Jo said it was quite impressive (not in a good way of course!) The taxi driver said it wasnt normal but it was probably just rivalry or something!

Got to Progresso to wait for a bus where we found yet another girl that had come on the boat with us. The buses came and went without stopping (and it was already 7pm and night out) but as we are the luckiest people on earth a minivan stopped and Jo hurried to it and after much negotiation managed to get 300 lempiras (19.2 lempiras = 1 US dollar) for the 5 of us (yes, not each for all of us!!! something the other girl wasn’t aware of until we arrived and she paid 300 and then we told her that was for all of us and that we had to pay her back the rest! She was quite impressed I must say! :) So we bunked for the night in La Ceiba in a comfortable hotel, not expensive but also with TV and air conditioner...

In the morning we tried to hurry to get to the bank and to the ferry terminal before the morning ferry to Utila (one of the 3 Bay Islands of Honduras and also the cheapest) where we knew there would be a festival tonight as this week was Carnaval!! We missed the ferry and had to wait for the one at 12 -- we checked out the port in the meantime and Jo got a couple of photos and then we were told by a port authority policeman that we were actually not allowed in the cargo area of the port and that pictures weren’t allowed! Oh well :) Made it on the boat and enjoyed an extremely rocking trip (it was as if we were on a see-saw going up and down -- but none of us got seasick :)

Now, at first we had just thought to come to the island, enjoy the festival tonight and tomorrow do canoeing and snorkeling and head back to La Ceiba on monday -- well, as you know, we are not very predictable and our plans have changed. As soon as we got off the boat we headed to a Dive shop where we learned the prices for beginner courses in scuba diving. We didn’t like the first and went looking for a hotel...on the way we went into another dive shop: Deep Blue Divers (5-star PADI certified...for those that don’t know PADI is Professional Association of Diving Instructors) and decided to take its 3 day course...se now tomorrow morning bright at 8 we start with our scuba lessons (in french and english!) and will already be in the water in the afternoon learning how to use the equipment and we will get about 4 dives in all and at the end will have a nice card saying we are certified to scuba dive without supervision anywhere in the world and all this for 200 euros each -- yes, this is the cheapest place on earth to learn to scuba and also the 2nd most beautiful reef in the world -- so not too bad I might say :)

Tonight we are gonna jam with the locals at their beach party but before that we have to catch up on some reading for our course tomorrow as we actually get tested after the 3 day course hehehe :)

Catch you all later...we send our love and besos to everyone and keep those comments coming!

Love
Jo and Fil

Finding Nemo (and some sharks too)!

Right, not only do we not get value for money we also get cockroaches and smelly water as well -- but at least we had an ocean view with a hammock and some cool iguanas and we managed to finally wash most of our clothes!

The day in Cayer Caulker was great...we got up early so as to not experience too much heat and also to go to the bank!! Then we went to our tour operator to get our fins and snorkeling gear and prepare ourselves for an adventure. The trip consisted of 3 dives and lunch at San Pedro, another island off to the north. At the first dive we saw some rich coral and lots of different kinds of fish (one was black with blue sparkly spots and we saw clown fish (like Nemo!) and those cool ones that actually swim sideways and blend in with the sand (like chameleons!)

We tried out our underwater camera (hopes the pictures come out good!) We stayed there for an hour and when we were about to return to the boat I spotted a huge shark just lying in between some corals -- we found out it was a Nurse shark (the guide couldnt explain to us why they are named that way) but they are harmless :)

After that we headed to San Pedro for lunch -- good Belizean food :) and then got going to Shark and Ray Alley. As soon as we got there the guide started feeding sardines and barracudas to the sharks and there were around 20 circling the boat --- it was AMAZING! And when we got in the water the guide actually caught one and turned it on its stomach and we were able to touch it and caress it -- the skin felt rubbery but it was smooth and really cool as you could also see inside its mouth with its three rows of spikey teeth! The guide also caught a manta ray and taught us how not to irritate it and get stung hehehe -- the skin was also rubbery. With the barracuda head the guide was able to entice a huge eel out of its hiding place inside a coral. All in all, a great day!

We were exhausted when we got back and instead of going to see the sunset out at the beach we ended up falling asleep in our room :) Then had a nice dinner, a cocktail while listening to the sounds of Raggae (yes, Bob Marley is still alive on these islands!) and a nice walk back to the hotel along the beach.

The next day was our leaving day from the Cayer... we had to get moving down to Honduras in order to be able to enjoy a bit of Honduras and Nicaragua before we leave! We ended up spending the morning looking for a hammock for my friend Tiga who says that you cant get anything decent in Honduras and then caught the boat back to Belize City.

As it was our last night in Belize Jo decided to splurge on the hotel...hint: no cockroaches! We were heading towards one on the guide but ended up having been sold to a private family. But then we were told about another one: The Great House Inn...and it really was a great house!! We got there to find that it was way above our budget but the receptionist was amazing and actually called the manager to check if they could give us the room for cheaper!!! And they did --- we got it for half its price and it consisted of a king size bed, air conditioning (our first so far!!), tv with cable, a fridge and a nice bathroom with a bathtub (also our first)! Luxury all the way-- it was amazing!! So needless to say after having that room we just went out for a nice Belize dinner and came back in order to enjoy it!

Next stop: Honduras!!

Welcome to Belize!

First impressions: super expensive (compared to Guatemala and especially compared to India) and super lazy! They are so lazy they don’t even bother walking to the bus terminal and just wait for the bus to make a turn around the square in front of their house!!! Okay, it is incredibly hot here so it could be understandable!

We got to Punta Gorda (yesterday) and got our passports stamped at immigration. Here they speak mostly English with a carib accent but they speak Spanish and Garifuna as well. We got a bus from Punta Gorda on the same day. When we said it is expensive it really is: the exchange rate is 1$ US = 2$ bn and the prices are around the same as back home (at least for the food and transportation)…and the worst is that you don’t really get quality for the money! But oh well…we didn’t plan to come to Belize and now we are gonna enjoy it to the max :)

The bus ride was interesting – it was 6 ½ hours -- the longest time we spent on a “chicken bus” (the same as Guatemala) and for the price we could have gotten a deluxe in Guatemala (okay, I’m gonna stop complaining about the price hehe!) We did about half of the country on that bus so we got to see a lot of the countryside and a lot of bana plantations (they cover the bananas with blue plastic bags to protect them from the insects so its like a cloud of blue among the fileds. Their expressway is only one lane either way and straight as the eye can see and with no sidewalks so the bus has to honk its horn every time it’s about to pass so as not to run over the people. The countryside is very pretty, down south it’s more flat and it starts getting more mountainous towards the north. We stopped constantly to pick up people along the way but the main stops were Placencia, Dangriga and Belize City.

Oh, I forgot to mention, here they is great diversity of ethnicity (Chinese, Indian, Garifuna, Mayan and Ladinos) and there is more mixing in between them than in Guatemala) so the bus was filled with just about everything and since the bus was a basic one people brought their own stereos so I crooned a bit to Celine Dion (they seem to like her here!) and of course R&B :)
We had to switch seats at one point because two fat Garifunas were unhappy with their seats (we had assigned seats but you didnt see us complaining for not getting them!) and at one point the bus picked up a family and the woman was pregnant so being the gentlemen that he is Jo let her sit with us except that meant we were crammed for about an hour of the journey (until another seat cleared)! The bus also had to dogdge a family of pigs at one point (it was the mum with all her little piglets --too cute!)

We got to Belize City (not the capital -- that is Belmopan) at 9pm and had to get a taxi to the hotel. I have to say it was the first time we had to use a credit card -- like I said --- expensive!!! And we didnt even get a tv or air conditioning with it, just a ventilator! But anyways...we had a quick hot dog on the street and then headed straight to bed as yesterday we got up at 4am, took two boats (each 1 hour long) and a chicken bus ride to get here, talk about travelling! :)

This morning we got our bearings and went off to find the tourism agency to get information for planes out of Belize to Honduras (as we unfortunately saw too late in the guide that the next boat out to Honduras was on friday and we didnt want to stay here that long). After walking in the blistering heat with our bags we found that the of the 2 tourist agencies in town one had moved out to the highway (5km away) and the other was closed and for rent! So we walked back and got a water taxi to Cayer Calker instead where we were told we could swim with sharks!!!

After another hour on yet another boat we find ourselves in something close to paradise (if it wasnt for the heat and the prices hehehe). The Cayer Calker is an island off the coast of Belize known for its diving and snorkeling and everywhere you walk you see tour agencies guaranteeing the best sights underwater ever --yes, we have already bought a waterproof camera but those pictures we wont be able to put up on the blog :(

We got a nice cabana hotel in front of the sea and have decided to stay here for two days (so we will be leaving for Honduras on friday afterall). We headed out to the Split after eating (thats the north end of the island and it is acutally called that due to the island having split after it was hit byt the last hurricane!) There the party goes on all day with music, beer and a cement pier filled with tourists where you look out and dive into the beautiful turquoise sea. The water was amazing! Jo yet again saw an opportunity to use his incredible bag again (this time with all the equipment inside) --- it really does work and it floats too hehehe So we took a couple of photos while in the water...I sneaked my Rolleiflex into his bag as well :)

The day was amazing however it could have been better if Jo hadnt cut his foot on a sharp shell or gotten stung by algae while with his camera in the water -- by the way, the best solution for algae sting is vinegar (so we found out)!!! So we headed home before the sunset (which I was really looking forward too) to treat his foot -- good thing we had a pharmacy with us :) and also to wash our clothes seeing as we will be resting here for 2 days...gives them plenty of time to dry :)

Tomorrow we are heading out with an all day tour to the reefs where we will be swimming with sharks (they have 5 different kinds here -- I hope they wont smell Jo's cut foot hehehe) and manatees and rays and turtles and of course the coral reef and lots of colourful fish -- we cant wait!

So we will catch up with you after that -- take care, hope everyone is doing well wherever they are in the world and lots of kisses!

Love,
Jo and Fil

P.S. We put up more photos on the blog and also some in the earlier entries so dont forget to skim down the blog to take a look at them :)

And now for something completely different!

Leaving Flores (22.07)

After the promised dip in the lake at 8am (extremely worthwhile and refreshing) we ran to get our bus to Rio Dulce. We met a nice Swiss couple travelling for 6 months on the bus and ending up hanging out with the them the last two days. Our paths have diverged today as they are heading to Guatemala city and we are in Puerto Barrios awaiting a ferry boat to Belize (which wasnt in our original plans!)
We arrived at Rio Dulce (you should check out a map of Guate to follow our route :) and we were immediately ushered to the port to get a lancha to Livingston -- luckily that was what we had in mind in the first place. Now, in Flores we already saw very little Mayans and indigenas, people were mostly ladinos ("white latins") and after an amazing 1 1/2 hour lancha ride across the Golfete and seeing tropical rainforests, castle San Filipe and amazing rich houses on the river (cabanas) with luxurious yachts (yep, we arrived where the rich Guatelmatecos vacation) we are face to face with Garifuna (black carib people originaries of the first slaves brought to Central America).
Livingston is a relaxed “easy living” village on the carib coast. The people are friendly and speak mostly Garifuna between them but do know how to speak Spanish and English --- most have relatives in the US and you see a culture clash between the young and the old as the young are all sporting big basketball shorts and large t-shirts with their caps on backwards (very US) and there are quite a US citizens on vacation. We had a hard time finding a hotel as most were taken and walking in the steaming humidity with backpacks is not a good idea. We finally found one with bungalows…
We spent the day mostly walking around town and through the beach (which was actually quite disappointing as the water is polluted and there is rubbish everywhere but the next day promised something better as we had already booked an ecological tour :) We had a couple of beers at night with our new Swiss “friends” and headed out to a local Garifuna disco where we were told there would be live Garifuna music -- well, apart from us 4 there was only another Spanish couple but we were given a taste of the local music which consists of drums and xilophones made out of shells and a lot of singing -- Jo didnt resist trying it out or dancing with the disco owner :)

As for something extremely funny, while we were walking around town constantly saying “Buenas Tardes” to the friendly locals we ran across this old and fat Garifuna woman that thought it quite amusing to go up to Jo and actually touch and caress his penis!!!! I found this extremely amusing as we actually thought she was going for his camera and Jo didn’t have time to react, I’m still laughing about it!!


And now Paradise….
We woke up not as early as usual and had our usual breakfast (we have been eating so many eggs we can start a plantation in our stomachs!!!) Then we got off to our ecological tour with our guide Eddie, a local Garifuna. Thankfully we thought well to put on our walking shoes, even in the hot weather, as we found ourselves going to the local museums, seeing 3 crocodiles that have been put into a miserly basin in the center of town, and walking all over town and through the mush and mud and people’s houses! We walked to the river basin where we were supposed to had a canoe waiting for us…instead we had to dig out one that was already there and push it through the mud into the water among all the crabs!! (Of course, us girls ---the Swiss couple was with us as well--- just watched and took pictures hehehe) The canoe was big enough for all 5 of us to remain standing – Jo, of course, tried to rock us a bit :)

After the canoe ride we arrive at the beach where we have ham and cheese sandwiches (well, the tour was cheap…) and then headed down the beach (passing a crazy old Garifuna with a machete that has actually had to be stopped by the police for attacking tourists with his machete --- all he did to us was cry out after passing us that “voy a matar los tods” – translation: im gonna kill you all!!”) to the Siete Altares, or as I would like to put it, PARADISE!!!

It consisted of fresh water pools with waterfalls where you could jump into clear turquoise water and just enjoy yourself. It was amazing!!! Me and Jo and Claudio (the Swiss) jumped quite a few times from different spots and of course, as usual, Jo tried to keep jumping from higher and higher – we got a couple of photos but due to the speed and the light they are mostly out of focus! And Jo finally got to test his waterproof camera bag --- it works :)
We stayed there a good hour before heading back to town (the entire tour was from 10am to 4pm so you can imagine our state after that!) Both Jo and I got sunburned --- which has now turned a nice colour brown :)

At night we took it easy…tried to find internet but as electricity is not always guaranteed on the island we were unlucky in our pursuit. So we enjoyed a nice quiet dinner with the most amazing soup called Tapado made out of curry and coconut milk with crab, fish, shrimps and octopus inside (yeah, all that!) --- it was delicious!!!
We headed back to the hotel (we had changed in the morning for a cheaper more spacious one as we are on a budget!) with an ice cream and attempted to make our bags as we would be leaving at 4am the next day to get the ferry to Puerto Barrios. I hardly slept during the night as there was a two hour extremely loud thunderstorm that I thought was going to gulp up the entire village! But luckily it subsided and by the time we left it was nice and breezy.

The ferry to Puerto Barrios was filled with Garifuna and indigenas (they don’t mix much amongst them – we only saw a couple of mulatto kids) and it took an hour…we saw the sunrise over Puerto Barrios
Now we are waiting for the ferry to Belize and have already got out exit stamps and tickets…so next stop Belize!!

See ya guys then :)

Love Jo and Fil

P.S. Hope you enjoy the photos --- sorry for the quality—next on my list: a proper digital camera—the colours here are too amazing to miss!

Tikal

Today was a super charged day and the fact that I still have this awful cold didnt help a bit!
We woke up at 4:30 to get the minivan to Tikal at 5 only to get there and have to wait half and hour because the park didnt open until 7 (argh!) Now, I have been to Mexico before and visited the Mayan pyramids there but nothing prepared me for what we saw at Tikal. It is part of the Mayan biosphere, the largest tropical forest of Central America. Tikal is a Mayan village with a grand plaza and everything. They are still excavating as there are still a lot of ruins underground. We were smart to come early as it got hotter and more unbearable as the day went along. We climbed everything we could (quite a few of the pyramids you couldnt go up as they had an accident with a tourist who died acouple of years ago)... Apart from the ruins we amused ourselves at observing the wild life. Its at this time that a video camera would ome in handy as the sounds we heard were worth remembering.
We ran into some monkeys (one I must say actually pied on me and I was lucky enough to move out of the way before he finished his business if you know what I mean!), a lot of spiders, caterpillars, crickets and birds, all of different colours, shapes and sizes --- lets just say I have seen enough creepy crawlers for the rest of the trip and worst, Jo kept trying to tease them to make them jump at us!
We got back to Flores at around 1:30 pm and enjoyed a nice nap before taking a boat to visit the lake Peten Itza. The sun was coming down, the water was cool and the boat was slow, all the ingredients for a really nice afternoon. From the Mirador we could see the entire lake and its surrounding villages then after we had a nice dinner by the lake side---the Lonely Planet doesnt speak too fondly of Flores saying that most buget tourists tend to just pass by on the way to Tikal and then move on but we have enjoyed our stay here, except for the heat which is quite humid and unbearable -- we are thinking about taking a dip in the lake tomorrow before we leave so as to be cool for the trip down to Rio Dulce (hopefully the air conditioning in the bus wont get me even sicker!)
P.S. we are still working on the photos but we promise it will be very soon :)
Hope you are all well and enjoying your summer wherever you are!

Besitos
Jo and Fil

Looking for a bank!

Hello again...

After an eleven hour extremely cold bus ride and almost 24 hours of drenching rain we made it to Flores. Beautiful little island on the Lago de Peten Itza an hour away from Tikal, which we will visit tomorrow bright and early at 5! Today we enjoyed a very relaxing day (well, we had no choice what with the thunderstorm), although I could do without this cold I got on the bus (thank goodness there are pharmacies everywhere!)
After it cooled down we went to take a look at our surroundings and ended up finding a Japanese restaurant founded by 2 japanese women who have been coming to Guatemala to volunteer for years and decided that they liked it so much they bought a restaurant/shop ....and yes...we did have sushi and saké!
And the finale..to explain the title of today's piece --- we have come with most of our cards, mostly maestro, mastercard, visa, visa electron, well, you know, the usual...except today we went looking for money with only Jo's maestro cards and a mastercard --- it took us five banks until we finally suceeded as most dont take maestro and Jo has forgotten the pin to his mastercard (this is not the first time we have this problem and in Xela we met an Austrian girl that had to go back to Mexico has she had no money and only a meastro card to her name that wasnt accepted anywhere!) So here is a little tip for travelling: always bring more than one different card and always remember your pin! :)

Bye for now
Love
Jo and Fil

Summary in French

Salut á tous, Voici donc comme promis un petit résumé pour les francophones ! Je n’irai cependant pas dans les détails,…Véronique a déjà trouvé un bon traducteur ! Le voyage aurait pu très bien commencer : arrivé á l’aéroport de Zaventem, á l’enregistrement des bagages une femme de American Airlines nous propose 1400 dollars pour prendre le même vol le lendemain ! Vous imaginez ma tête !! J ai tout de suite dit OUI ! Mais je n’aurai pas dû tourner ma tête sur Filipa, avec un regard tueur elle me dit que NON, c’est son premier jour de vacances et il n’est pas question qu’on ne rentre pas de cet avion ! Bref, comme c’est les femmes qui ont toujours le dernier mot (alors qu’on a toujours raison) nous avons tout simplement raté cette occasion en or ! Elle a fini par regretter et avouer son erreur… 3 jours plus tard ! Apres des retards d’avions qui ont bien faillit nous faire rater le vol du jour á New York (et sans les 1400 dollars) ! On s’est tout de suite dirigé vers Antigua, car il n’y a pas grand chose a voir á Guatemala Ciudad, Antigua est une très belle ville colonial, les maisons sont peintes en couleurs et les rues sont toutes en pierres … c’est toujours pareils les premiers jours : j’ai bouffé 3 pellicules ! Apres nous sommes allés á Panajachel et au Lac Atitlan, ainsi que deux autres villages autour de cette immense lac bordé d’énorme volcans ! Dans les petits villages nous allons tout de suite dans les petites rues boueuse, là ou nous rencontrons des gens moins habitué aux touristes et très sympathique car surpris de nous voir des ses endroits. Pour le moment nous sommes á Quetzaltenango (Xela), nous sommes venu ici avec les bus locaux, pour moins d´un dollars alors que les agences touristique en demande 20 ! C’est toujours une aventure de voyager avec ces bus ! Les chauffeurs roulent comme des tarés, on est á 70 dedans alors qu’il n’y a que 40 places, la musique locale á fond, on á pas encore eu droit aux animaux, mais ça ne va sûrement pas tarder ! Aujourd’hui nous sommes allés á las Fuentes Georginas, ce sont des sources d’eau chaude aménagées au milieu d’une végétation tropicale. Nous avons dû prendre un pickup pour arriver jusque là, mais la brume ne nous a pas permis de voir grand choses, á part quelques agriculteurs travaillant au flan de la montagne… Pour l´Anecdote un couple Israelien m’a même demandé si je travaillais pour le National Geographic avec tout le matériel que je trimballe ! Demain nous verrons peut être Julien (Demoustier) un ami de l'unif qui est aussi dans le coin! Et puis c’est un scoop : notre blog n’est pas accessible depuis la Chine, le CCP la sans doute censuré, on est déjà sur les listes noir ! A tout bientôt et on essayera de mettre quelques photos prochainement !

Filipa et Jo

Hello from Xela

First of all, thanks for all your comments, keep them up, it makes us feel like we are being accompanied by all of you :)
Yesterday we did a tour of Lago Atitlan with a "tourist" boat. It was really nice and the views were just beautiful...by the way, we will try to upload some photos onto the blog but its a bit hard as they are too big and we have to figure out how to downsize them!
The boat ride took us to 3 villages around the lake: San Pedro, Santiago and San Antonio de Polopo. In all of them we had to walk extremely uphill as they are all on volcanoes! In San Pedro we were amused by all the houses as they all had paintings of religious sayings such as "Dios te ama", "Solo Jesus pode cambiar tu vida", I took a couple of photos of that...some houses even had two sayings, I guess the local priest must have told them that they would be blessed the more they showed their belief or something. We were welcomed into one house by a really nice Mayan family, they spoke Tzutujil (local dialect: tzu-tu-hil)) between them but also spoke spanish. The "male" of the family showed us his painting depicting rural life (very bright colours is all I have to say) and asked us to take pictures of him. We ended up taking photos of the entire family many times over with a promsie to send them by post :)
In Santiago, the thing to see was the local God "Maximon". He is supposed to be part Jesus, part local diety, part Judas. He changes houses every once in while (we think its to balance the power as the people that "hold" him are payed to present Him to the locals and tourists). It was quite a funny site as the "god" is made out of wood and he is holding a cigar in his mouth, he usually likes cuban cigards and expensive rum but he will do with the local stuff :) We also bought a local mask of the jaguar (which they use on local festivities and holidays), its extremely colourful and some might say kitch but I thought it makes a great decoration and as it is a local tradition, why not!
In San Antonio you could see the desperation of the people. As it is always the last village to be visited, all the tourists have already bought what they had to buy and were too tired to visit the town properly. Little girls would ask us for 5 quetzals (9.50 quetzals = 1 euro, 7.5 quetzals = 1 dollar) for a bunch of bracelets, hand woven, and even if you say "No Gracias" because you really dont need them, they lower the price to 1 quetzal for the bunch! In this village the only building that had paint was the local church (big and white) while in the other 2 villages the houses were all colourful...By the church a nice local woman selling textiles called Jo "Jesus" (it happens a lot in these parts, so he tells me :)
After a charged morning we made it back to the hotel to get our bags and head out to the bus stop to catch a "chicken bus" (they are in fact old US and Canadian school buses that were given to the Latin American countries when they get old). Most have been painted over with bright colours while others retain their yellow school bus colour. They are plentiful and a lot cheaper. Example, the tour agency asked us for 20 dollars each from Panajachel to Quetzaltenango while with a chicken bus we paid 2 quetzales each to Los Encuentros and then 12 each to Quetzaltenango!! So, we decided that from now, whenever possible, chicken bus it is!!

We got to Quetzaltenango around 6:30. Lets just say we were expecting a small quaint village and ended up being in the second largest city of Guatemala! Well, there goes that...We arrive at the bus station and a couple (girl American from Falls Church, Virginia ---for those who dont know, when I lived in the States I lived the first 5 years in McLean, VA which is practically the next town over :) and the boy was guate) are nice enough to take us with them to the "taxi" stop where we get in a minivan that acts as a taxi and takes us for a 1 quetzal each (plus 2 for the bags) to the center of town. There we make it to a nice and huge hostel called Casa Argentina.

This morning, after being woken up numerous times by trucks, cars, music blaring and market people, we get up lazily (hey, we have been waking up everyday since we got here at 7 in the morning so give us a break :) and make it to the bus stop to get to Zunil. After another comfortable chicken ride (think: the seats are made for two but they cram up to four people and baggages per seat) we get a pickup for the outrageous price of 35 quetzals (we have been told its normal) that takes us to Fuentes Georginas, a sulphuric hot pool, visited by locals and tourists alike. We pass a nice and relaxing 3 hours there. It was a really beautiful place as the pools are covered in mist and surrounded by tropical vegetation. We have lunch and nice hot chocolate before heading back. We had asked the pickup driver to come get us at 3 but luckily for us the man who comes to sell chips to the restaurant was heading to Xela (the mayan name for Quetzaltenango) and offered us a lift. We got to know about his life and it was actually quite envigorating as he worked hard to have enough money to buy a house and only after did he get a wife and now has two daughters whom he takes care of by having a store in Xela and selling the chips to the restaurants (in chips I mean cheetos and pringles, that kind of stuff). He said that usually men in Guate dont work and get girls pregnant then are forced to marry them and in the end have four or five children they cant feed or send to school. He was quite amazed when i said that back home women wait until their late twenties, early thirties, to have kids :)
Once back in Xela we visited the only thing there is to see --- parque Centroamerica. Let me just tell you, one of the mayors (gobernador) of Xela was crazy for greek architecture so you will see a parthenon, an ampitheatre, and the parque is full of greek columns. Around the parque is the Municipalid (also in greek style) and a very cool building which seems to belong to 2 different owners as only half of it is painted! Tonight we intend to visit a local bar (mostly filled with foreigners --- including the waitresses as there a lot of foreigners that come to study spanish and then decide to stay and work).
Tomorrow we head back to Pana ---where we might meet up with Julien, a friend of Jo's from ULB and we head out to Flores (via Guatemala City) at 4 in the afternoon. Next time you hear from us will be on the 19th from Flores...
Oh, by the way I forgot to mention, Jo got a really nice compliment the other day by a Israeli couple: They asked him if he worked for National Geographic (because of his huge camera!) Nobody could take the smile way from him after that :)

Hope you are all well, including those two adventurers in Beirut and Haifa. Tina, take care of yourself, we are all worried! Thank you to those who wrote to us, keep it up!

Love,
Jo and Fil

Lago de Atitlan

Woke up early this morning to get the bus to Panajachel on the Lago de Atitlan which is surrounded by 3 volcanos (wait, im reapeating myself!)
The views from the bus were beautiful, very green. The bus driver and his companeros extremely nice (Jo asked them for some advice for the remainder of our Guate journey) and they would stop whenever there were people on the side of the road needing a ride...it seems that most mornings parents take their kids to school on these buses as schools are few and far apart. We had a near accident with a mini-bus but only good for a couple of laughs.
We arrived in Panajachel after stopping first in Solola, which is a market town with a huge white church and overlooking the lake and its volcanoes. The bus dropped us off in the main calle of Panajachel and it was up to us to find our hotel (Thank goodness for Lonely Planet :) We arrived only to find that our room wouldnt be ready for another couple of hours, so we went to the public beach (which I wouldnt recommend anyone to swim in) and took a couple of panoramic photos and portraits of the locals making their way to the beach.
Took a stroll around town, which is mostly geared towards tourists with plenty of shopping stalls with all the local artifacts and textiles (amazingly there are quite a few Guate tourists coming here, not just foreigners, which is something you wouldnt find in Leh, in the Indian Himalayas).
We spent the day pretty much trying to figure out our next step from here. Jo wanted to take the untravelled road to Coban that would then lead us to Flores and Tikal, however the untravelled road is really untravable due to road conditions so a journey that should take us 10 hours would take us 3 days only to get half way! We have now figured out our route but I guess you'll just have to keep reading to find out :)
In the afternoon we went by tuc-tuc to the Natural Reserve. This turned out to be very worthwhile as we got some really good views of the volcanoes, monkeys and another animal that is in between a monkey and a badger (or ant-eater) not quite sure how to describe but there were quite a lot of them and they were not at all shy to come near us :) Then we kept on the trail to discover a nice waterfall. All very beautiful, although i could have done without the spiders all over the trail! Lets just say Jo had a good laugh at me for that :)
On the way back we went to visit this outrageously ugly hotel geared for rich tourists right on the lake but made out of three skyscrapers in earth green (I guess they were trying to blend them into nature -- not a very good job!).
Tonight we will be enjoying a nice dinner by the lake side (hopefully the seafood will be nice cause after two days we are already beginning to tire of nachos hehehe) and tomorrow off on a boat ride to visit the surrounding villages.

Goodbye for now...Love Jo and Fil

We have arrived!!!

After a hectic flight with a 3 hour delay in New York not to mention a mini-panic attack at having lost the passports (that had always been in my bag!!), getting to Guatemala when there were no more buses to Antigua and having the luck to find a hotel van (5 star hotel of course) that had come to pick up their 2 guests and could get us on the bus, we got to Antigua at midnight!! Oh yeah, and Jo would like to mention that I did not accept to change our flight to the day after and receive $1400 for it (yes, i am an idiot but all I could think about was getting out of Brussels on my first day of vacation!!)

Anyways, money aside, we have spent a wonderful day in Antigua, woke up with a beautiful view of Volcan Agua, had a great breakfast and started sightseeing. We feel extremely comfortable here, the people are very nice and helpful, you dont feel that they are doing it to get something out of us at all. We saw the Parque Central where a tv station was filming what we guess is a morning talkshow. Saw the ruins of Igliesa de Santiago where a wedding was taking place and of Santa Maria de Merced. We had the luck to arrive on the day of Antigua´s saint so there was a firework procession with a band right in the middle of Mercado Central which is full of local artifacts and the usual stuff you can find in local markets. You have street stalls emanating wonderful smells, but we have yet to try street food, we promised we would give our stomachs a couple of days to adjust before attempting at the local rituals :) Jo has already taken 2 films worth of photos, the indigenous people usually allow him to take portraits but sometimes they asked for some money, but he doesnt think thats right so whenver that happend he just moved on to the next subject. We have also discovered the only Fair Trade shop in the whole of Central America (not sure if thats quite true) but it was very well presented with very nice artifacts, of course we couldnt resist. There are many beautiful things to buy to fill up one´s house but we´re trying to keep it to the minimum seeing as we have to carry it on our backs!

Tomorrow we will be leaving in the morning for Panajachel, in Lago Atitlan where we can do hiking and biking if we feel like it, also it is surrounded by 3 volcanos, one active. Jo really wants to hike up one but its not always safe and they recommend to always go with a travel agency, however, i am not sure we will have the time seeing as we want to go up north to Tikal, the mother of the Mayan ruins and then down to Livingston, so still a lot to do.

I guess that is all for now, hope we dont bore you with all this.

Love,
Jo and Fil

Only a couple of hours to go

I am all stress, we have yet to pack our bags and we have a dinner with my colleagues that is alerting to go until the last man can stand. I am extremely excited but Guatemala, Honduras and nicaragua promise to be an aventure of great sorts!!! I hope you will all keep up with this blog, I cant promise that you will have an entry to read everyday but I will do my best (of course it will never equals Sam's, neither cynicism levels nor verbal proficiency) but i figured it would be easier than writing to everyone and filling up mail boxes.
Goodbye for now, still lots of last minute thingys to achieve. Next step...CENTRAL AMERICA, Ay Caramba!

Jo and Fil

New trip for Jo and Fil

Hello all!

After our big trip last year to India we decided that travelling was really our calling in life. I must admit that we travel a lot (okay in between we have to either work or study in order to be able to afford the travelling, but this is the end goal).
We will travel Central America for a month, hitting Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua, ending with a 3 day trip in New York (and finishing with a 2 week rest in Portugal, because of course, after all the backpacking we will need a rest!).
The only thing we know is that we are supposed to go from Guatemala City to Antigua as soon as we land as that is where we have our one and only reservation for the first night!
We are backpackers without a care in the world (well, for this month at least). We are looking for aventure and lots of photo opportunities, interact with the locals and take in the sights. We hope you will enjoy the blog and comment as much as you want...dont be shy :) Talk to you soon...

Jo and Fil